Long gone are the days when skin scientists believed that our skin was simply a mass of cells that make up our outer shell. Much research has been carried out over the last few decades on the structure of our skin and the important function it has in protecting us from environmental aggressors like bacteria, viruses, fungi and pollutants. We now know that our skin is home to a diverse population of micro-organisms or our skin microbiome. It's estimated that roughly 1,000 different species of microbiota inhabit our skin, made up of a mixture of bacteria, viruses, fungi and mites. Just like in nature, these organisms all inhabit a specific habitat on our skin, suggesting that they play a key role in our skin Ecosystem, our “Skin Microbiome”.
Surely it's bad to have all of these microbes hanging around on our skin? Shouldn't we use harsh cleansers to get rid of them?
This was once the thinking, and spawned a vast range of anti-bacterial and anti-fungal products in the skin care and medical industries. It was stupidly thought that we pick up these things on our daily travels through our world and that they were merely hitchhikers using us as a transport vehicle to their next resting and breeding place.
Recent studies however have uncovered the important role that these little microscopic inhabitants play in our overall skin health. Like nature there is always a delicate balance in any ecosystem, and it seems our skin microbiome is no different.
We literally have good bacteria that keep the bad bacteria in check. Attacking the bad guys and keeping their population down. We have mites that live and breed on our skin. An example of these is the Demodex mites that inhabit our facial skin. Two species seem to live on our faces. One that lives on the hair follicles and inhabits the space just below the skin/hair junction, and another species which live deeper in our oil secretion (sebaceous) glands.
Whilst these mites are harmless, an excess number of these on our skin has been linked to conditions such as Rosacea. Although the mites themselves don't seem to cause the Rosacea, it seems that when they die they excrete waste onto our skin which can cause the irritation, itching and burning sensation that is commonplace in people with this condition.
So what happens if we try to kill all the skin microbiome?
It's virtually impossible to eradicate all of our skin microbiome. However, topically applied creams, lotions and alcohols can remove a large number of them. This is particularly useful if you are about to have surgery and the surgeon doesn't want you to suffer from a post-operative infection. But what about the good guys that kill the bad guys? or at least keep them in check? Studies have shown that the daily removal of the good and the bad guys with harsh cosmetic products contributes to an over-population or imbalance of skin microbiome variety. This imbalance can lead to some nasty skin conditions and problems.
How Can We Build a Healthy Skin Microbiome?
There are a few things that can assist you in creating or correcting the balance of your skin (and gut) micro biome. Our skin is naturally acidic. In fact the average pH of human skin is between 4.5-5.5. This is the reason that many skin care products have pH's that match this range. If we use too many products on our skin that disrupt or change the pH, then this leads to a proliferation of bad skin microbiome organisms that thrive on an unbalanced skin. Firstly by avoiding the use products that contain ingredients known to disrupt our natural skin flora. Choosing more gentle cleansers without harsh exfoliating or antibacterial ingredients is a good start.
Look for facial cleansers that are formulated with ingredients targeted to your skin type and designed to correct any skin condition you might be suffering from. I offer a tailored consultation service that can help to identify which products are most suited to you.
I also highly recommend a daily dose of Probiotics to help keep the pH of our skin in check. These billions of bacteria in a capsule actually traverse our intestines and then trigger complex processes within our immune system that then in turn triggers activity in the skin. Creating the correct pH and habitat for these beneficial micro flora. Feeding skin from within is just as important as looking after them from the outside.
A double blind study in 2012 found that taking 2 strains of bacteria, Lactobacillus salivarius LS01 and Bifidobacterium breve BR03 produced an improvement in Atopic Dermatitis. Patients who received the placebo did not see any improvement. So it seems there is an evidence based link to consumption of probiotics and resolution of skin conditions like dermatitis.
Last, but certainly not least, avoid over-exfoliation of the skin. Over stimulated skin tends to have a depleted or damaged barrier layer and this will allow the bad guys a way into the deeper layers of your skin. Bacteria, fungus etc. that would otherwise be kept out by our skin barrier, find small cracks in the skin and start to infect and multiply in the deeper layers causing many skin issues. Acne, fungal infections, bacterial skin diseases all invade damaged skin and take root in layers of skin more hospitable to their colonies. So it's best to avoid this (prevention is always better than cure) by looking after your skin barrier in the first place.uct? What about the potential alteration of its nutrient and chemical profile?
Gentle exfoliation is a great thing in almost all people's skins. But over-exfoliation in every skin is known to deplete the barrier. Exfoliants shouldn't be used by a group of people who are using medically prescribed exfoliants or those with certain skin conditions where exfoliation may exacerbate these conditions.
In truth, exfoliation is recommended to remove the dead, dry skin on the surface of our epidermis. Going deeper and removing more layers removes more of the protection of our barrier layers. It's why deeper exfoliation should only be carried out by a professional skin therapist.
Therapists are trained in the correct procedure for deeper exfoliation in a controlled manner and will also advise on the correct skin care to use after this procedure. In general chemical exfoliants are preferred over mechanical exfoliants. This means substances like Glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid are preferred to the use of scrubs. I can recommend a number of products containing exfoliants, that are safe to use on the skin.
Summary
We should be making changes to our daily skin routines to embrace and support our own living “skin cities”. These tiny inhabitants on our skin play a vital role in our skin health and our general immune system too. The two-pronged approach of feeding them from within and also nurturing them with good skin care practices can prevent and also treat a number of skin infections and diseases. By adopting the tips above I've seen many clients change their skin for the better.
Recommended Microbiome Friendly Products
An excellent cleanser that won't strip the skin varrier comes from Paula's Choice . Their Calm - Ultra Gentle Cleanser is great for preserving the natural skin microbiome. It's a soft, cushiony cleanser that removes makeup & impurities whilst preserving the skin’s barrier. The soothing formula leaves a silky-smooth finish and has a redness-reducing benefit.
Next up would be Paula's Choice Calm - Rescue & Repair Weightless Moisturiser . A lightweight moisturiser for sensitive, oily-to-combo skin, which visibly calms redness & smooths while targeting wrinkles and other signs of ageing. Another great addition to prevent destruction of skin microbiome.
Finally a fantastic serum, which should be in everyone's bathroom cabinet (not just because it's great for maintainging skin health) is Paula's Choice - Omega+ Complex Serum . This Light, lotion-style serum strengthens the skin barrier and allows it to behave younger. It contains some fantastic ingredients like chia and flaxseed oils, naturally known antioxidants and great for skin barrier health.