How Retinol Works in Skincare

What exactly is Retinol & why is it the must-have skincare ingredient?

In the ever-evolving world of skincare, one ingredient stands out for its remarkable anti-aging properties and skin-renewing capabilities. Retinol is widely recognized as a potent derivative of vitamin A, retinol has become a staple in many skincare routines, renowned for its ability to combat fine lines, wrinkles, and other signs of aging. However, the magic lies not just in retinol itself but in its transformation within the skin into the active form known as retinoic acid.

Understanding How Retinol Works

Retinol, a fat-soluble vitamin A1, serves as a precursor to retinoic acid, the active form that exerts its transformative effects on the skin. While retinol is readily available in many skincare products, it undergoes a conversion process within the skin to become retinoic acid, the compound responsible for initiating cellular changes.

The Retinol Conversion Process

The journey from retinol to retinoic acid involves a series of enzymatic reactions that take place within the skin cells. Let's break down the steps of this conversion process:

• Absorption into the Skin - Skincare products containing retinol are applied topically to the skin, either in serum or moisturiser form. The retinol is absorbed into the skin layers, reaching the target cells.
• Conversion to Retinaldehyde - Within the skin cells, retinol is enzymatically converted into retinaldehyde, a step that involves alcohol dehydrogenase enzymes. This conversion is crucial for making retinol more bioavailable for subsequent transformations.
• Transformation to Retinoic Acid - The Retinaldehyde then undergoes further enzymatic conversion, primarily through retinaldehyde dehydrogenase enzymes. The final product of this process is retinoic acid, the active and biologically active form of vitamin A.
• Cellular Impact of Retinoic Acid - Retinoic acid influences gene expression and cellular activity, promoting collagen production, increasing cell turnover, and enhancing the skin's ability to repair and regenerate. These effects contribute to the reduction of fine lines, wrinkles, and overall improvement in skin texture and tone.

What are the Benefits of Retinoic Acid

• Collagen Synthesis - Retinoic acid stimulates the production of collagen, a crucial protein for maintaining skin elasticity and firmness.
• Cellular Renewal - By accelerating cell turnover, retinoic acid helps shed old, damaged skin cells, revealing fresher, younger-looking skin.
• Hyperpigmentation Reduction - Retinoic acid plays a role in minimizing hyperpigmentation by regulating melanin production and promoting an even skin tone.
• Prevention of Wrinkles - The collagen-boosting effects of retinoic acid contribute to the prevention and reduction of fine lines and wrinkles.

Adding Retinol to your Routine

It's important to ensure that you don't overload the skin with retinol. Many of my clients have had issues with using too much retinol on their skin before the skin has become used to it. Effectively using retinol in your daily skin care routine takes time and patience to see longer lasting results.

I always recommend starting on a low strength product first and then build up your skin tolerance to retinol before moving to a higher concentration retinol product. This is because our skin only has a limited amount of Retinol Receptors in our skin. As we introduce retinol products, your skin will adapt by upregulating the amount of these receptors. Excess retinol left on the skin and not converted can cause irritation and some serious skin rashes.

Retinol Cleansers

We are now starting to see product companies releasing so-called Retinol Cleansers. Many of these products contain Vitamin A (which is not Retinol). Retinol belongs to a group of Vitamin A derivatives. So it can be misleading to call these products retinol cleansers. They are largely ineffective in terms of retinol being absorbed into the skin, as they are washed off before the ingredients have had any time to be absorbed into the skin and thus converted into Retinaldehyde and then into Retinoic Acid. There are much better ways to add retinoids to your skin care, as you'll see below.

TOP TIP: Don't be fooled by Retinol Cleansers - They are simply a waste of money

Retinol Serums

Retinol Serums are the workhorses of the retinoid products. Applied after thorough cleansing, they are best placed to facilitate the conversion of ingredients into Bioavailable Retinoic Acid. These should usually be applied in the evening to maximise the regenerative effects during our sleep.

Retinol Moisturisers

Adding a moisturiser containing retinol can also be useful in incorporating retinols into your skin care routine. The added benefit can be that they are a 2-in-1 solution. Sometimes it is also better to "dilute" your retinol serum with a moisturiser. Especially when starting out in adding retinoids into your routine.

Summary

In the realm of skincare, the journey from retinol to retinoic acid is a testament to the sophisticated and dynamic processes occurring within our skin. By understanding how retinol transforms into its active form, we gain insight into the remarkable benefits that can be achieved through consistent use. When incorporated wisely into a skincare routine, retinol can be a powerful ally in the quest for youthful, radiant skin, making it a key player in the arsenal against the signs of aging.

My Top Recommended Retinol Skincare Products

Top of the list is my all-time favourite Retinol Eye Serum. Endocare Renewal Retinol Eye Contour. Containing powerful RetinSphere technology, which provides retinol in a dual-delivery system for both immediate and long-lasting activity with minimal irritation, it is a powerful yet gentle addition to your nighttime skincare routine.

A starter serum that I highly recommend is The Inkey List Retinol Serum. It has 1% Retinyl Acetate, which is a slow release form of retinol that is great for beginner users.

An excellent alternative serum with slightly more power comes from Paula's Choice. Their Pro Retinaldehyde Dual-Retinoid Treatment has a stronger form of retinol that is closely matched to the fully converted retinoic acid. So it takes less effort to be converted in the skin and therefore is more bioavailable right out of the bottle.

A great moisturiser to pair with either of the serums above would be Paula's Choice Anti-Aging Intensive Repair Moisturiser. An ultra-rich hydrating cream with 0.2% retinol that reinforces the skin's barrier and smooths fine lines.

Finally, if you already have a fantastic nighttime moisturiser that you simply love, you can use a retinol booster like this one from Paula's Choice - 1% Retinol Booster. Allowing you to blend this serum into your regular moisturiser to boost your moisturiser's effectiveness, whilst adding a 1% dose of pure Retinol into the mix. Helps to avoid wastage by allowing you to customise any moisturiser.